This is not a step-by-step guide, but notes from my installation of adapters to the Instax Wide 300 cameras. FOR SPECIFIC MODIFICATION DETAILS, VISIT https://sprkplg.com/wide300mod/ which contains video instructions, wiring, and light-sealing tips. The video linked in that article also lists all the materials/tools you will need.
- After following the steps in the video, and once you have removed the knurled focusing selector ring, you will see three slots that used to hold the ring in place. When you snap the lens adapter into the slots, firmly turn the lens adapter counter-clockwise 1/4 inch or 6-7mm so that it stays in place.
- Before gluing the adapter in place, carefully attach a lens with a back plate on it (127mm f/4.7 or 100mm f/2.8) so you can make sure you have perfect alignment. If you do not have these lenses, then it does not need to be perfectly aligned. You can just make sure that the lock screw is centered. Alternatively, you can just center the lens before you use the camera and load film. Make a mark to help you align once you glue it as the glue you use may dry fast.
- The adapter should be glued in place so that it does not pop off when normally mounting lenses. Cover the sides of the adapter, and the face of your camera with tape as this can be messy. Glue may be difficult to clean off of any plastic surfaces. I use Loctite Super Glue Ultragel Control as that has been determined to have one of the best bonds for plastic parts. It is also easier to apply without a major mess. Visit the instructions page above for the specific glue points. You want to add a drop or two in the channels where the adapter will attach, as well as a drop on all of the slightly raised surfaces around the opening. Add the drops closer to the opening away from the body so you don’t overspill onto the body.
- Light can still shine through where the adapter meets the installation slots, so once the adapter is in place I highly recommend using Sugru moldable silicone glue, but use gloves to prevent fingerprints. Alternatively black hot glue around the inside of that rim can be used. You can also use black tape, but it can be stubborn to stick. Any black silicone will work as well. Tape and silicone is recommended only if you are sure the mount was glued securely as these are not strong adhesives, just sealing materials.
- If you use hot glue, scuff or sand it once cooled so it does not have a shiny surface with reflections, or add a layer of tape on top of it. Avoid shiny tape for the same reason, use flat/matte black tape instead. Gaffer tape works best, but check to see if it can block light completely. Some tapes will require 2 layers.
- Review the modification details article in the link above for light-sealing recommendations inside the body.
- For any help, or discounts on future purchases please contact maximumAnalog@gmail.com or visit SPRKPLG.com. Find me on Instagram, @maxwanderlush, and be sure to tag you photos with #mpWide300. Thank you for your purchase!