Hacking the Instax Wide 300

In my store, I have available Mamiya Press & Polaroid 600SE adapters to make this hack easier. While you do not need to buy one to perform the mods below, your alternative is a much more expensive Extension Tube set, and at least 2 extra hours of sanding and cutting both plastic and aluminum. Also you will need to use ground glass to determine the correct focus distance.

For those who are performing their own mods, this page will serve as your primary resource. It is recommended that you view the video, read the ejection cycle notes, and light-sealing tips before you begin your mod as things have developed over time.

VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS & WIRING
Start with the basic video instructions. This video shows disassembly, removal of electronics, wiring for manual ejection, and reassembly. Also review updated wiring instructions for one-press ejection cycle if so desired. One concern many have had is regarding soldering. I now no longer solder, and use shrink tubing on joined wires instead for a faster modification.

ADAPTER INSTALLATION TIPS
These are the instructions I normally send with adapter orders. Please take a look for further insight into this mod: Adapter Installation Tips.

LIGHT-SEALING YOUR CAMERA
At the time of the video recording above, despite the existence of written instructions, I had several open orders with customers requesting some sort of video/visual step-by-step guide. I quickly put this one together, and based on feedback I want to give more detailed visual instructions for avoiding light leaks.

Images are numbered 1-9, with steps 1-4 preserving the internal light cone, and 5-9 omitting it.

Steps 1-4 are optional, and only apply if you are using the Mamiya Press 50mm f/6.3, 65mm f/6.3, 75mm f/5.6, 90mm f/3.5, and 100mm f/3.5, or the Polaroid 600SE’s 75mm f/5.6. I feel if you have the tools to cut up the lens cone, then try this route.. it will make light-sealing testing easier.

Step 5 is mandatory for any route as the flash and electronics board were removed, allowing a plast of light to come in through the flash window.

Steps 6-9 eliminate the internal cone which will otherwise block the corners for the Mamiya Press 100mm f/2.8, 127mm f/4.7, as well as the Polaroid 600SE’s 127mm f47, and beyond that for both mounts.

The image above shows what you need to remove to re-use the inner light-sealing cone. The circled areas represent tracks where the lens assembly sits. Pop the lens pegs out of these channels, and then pry them off once the lens assembly is removed.

  1. Trim this shroud down to the step as pointed out.
  2. Once trimmed, this is what it should look like.
  3. Apply a couple strips of gaffer’s tape, or any opaque black tape to the bottom area of this shroud.
  4. Make sure you add your choice of tape, glue, or silicone where the adapter meets the body so that light does not go through there. UPDATE: I have decided to use a different method, described here.

5. Block light from entering through the flash window. I apply a smaller strip of reversed tape so it will look dark when viewing from the front of the camera. You can just fill the flash window opening with something as well, but it might be messier.

6. Continue applying tape to cover any square or rectangular holes in this area.

7. Trim this protrusion for the next steps.

8. Prepare a strip of 1/2″ x 1/2″ dense window weatherstripping, and cut a notch in it as shown.

9. Once applied, it should look like this image. See how the trimmed area will continue to the left past the viewfinder? This is to block any light that may shine through the viewfinder.

During reassembly, the foam will prevent the front and back of the Wide 300 from mating properly. Once screwed in place it will hold its shape.

MODDED CAMERA OPERATION GUIDE
Once you have finished your mod, please take a look at this guide on how I recommend you operate your camera. This is what I normally send with a modded camera purchase: Wide Mod Operation Guide.

If you have any other questions or concerns about this mod, please contact me.