Big Roid Files: https://www.patreon.com/posts/big-roid-files-82318895
Diffuser Set Files: https://www.printables.com/model/435627-diffuser-set-for-big-wide-big-roid-and-big-large-c
- Total print time: 48-60+ hours across 6-7 print jobs depending on printer and settings (longest job is 16-30hrs, the Rear part)
- Total filament: approx 650-800 grams
There are 4 versions:
- Big Roid OS – standard version, uses OneStep Polaroid units.
- Big Max – Same as above, but sleek and slim, with smaller handle.
- Big Max Travel – Same as above, but main body is split in three and uses magnets to attach. Shortened front standard.
- Big Roid CB – uses CB-70 film backs instead of integrated Polaroid back.
PHOTO GEAR NEEDED
1 – Large Format view lens, 210mm ideal though you can experiment with 180 to 240mm (model modifications required).
- Fujinon 210mm f5.6 was used to develop this build as it is the cheapest and most widely available, but it is heavy.
- Rodenstock Sironar-N (and Caltar equivalent) would be the other budget big lens.
- G-Claron, Geronar, Xenar, Congo, Caltar II-E all in 210mm are the lighter ones. My personal go-to is the Geronar, or if you can find a G-Claron for a good price. Check KEH often.
1 – Polaroid OneStep 2 or OneStep+, with functioning ejection mechanism (not needed for CB version).
1 – Acrylic or piece of ground glass that you can cut to size – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B096HFTP6C/ this works in a pinch.
1 – Tripod for calibration.
1 – Small flash, Vivitar 252 is preferred. Next up would be a “Nissin 30 flash” (EF-30, MC-30, etc) of which a Sears 003 is a clone. Omit the diffuser frame to use a better flash trigger and strobe setup.
PARTS LIST
1 – Cold shoe – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071H4934L
1 – Tripod bushings – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BJW3082
2 – M2x6 screws
8 – M2x12 screws
4 – M2x16 screws
2 – M3x20 screws
14 – M2 nuts
2 – M3 nuts
3 – Biz card fresnels – https://www.amazon.com/Hestya-Fresnel-Magnifier-Reading-Starter/dp/B07CPSXPP4
2 – 2-way mirror pieces (cut pieces down to 23.5 x 37mm – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SZ51VB1)
1 – TP4056 unit – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PKND8KG/
1 – 8mm momentary push switch – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S1MNB8C/
1 – 5mm slide switch – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVM3XYR/
8 – 60x10x3mm magnets – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092487L9F/ (For Big Max Travel)
6 – 15×6.5×3 magnets – no longer available but 15x6x3 will work just center them correctly (optional For Big Max Travel)
PRINTED PARTS FILES
Beginning with this version I have started standardizing file names to keep better track across all the variants. Anything that is “Big Cam” is in common with other variants
A. Big Roid OS
- Big Cam Front.3mf -or- Big Cam Front wGrip.3mf
- BR_front_lensboard_C1_000.3mf + BC_front_spacer_C1_200.3mf (modify STEP file as needed) -or- BR_front_lensboard_C1_650.3mf (modify STEP file as needed)
- Big Roid Rear OS.3mf
- BC_diffuser_frame.3mf
- BR_cover_front.3mf
- BR_tp4056_holder.3mf
- BR_RF_mount_OS.3mf
- BC_RF_top.3mf -or- BX_RF_top.3mf for Big Shot styling
- BC_RF_tube_top.3mf
- BC_RF_body.3mf -or- BX_RF_body.3mf for smaller hands
- BC_RF_bottom.3mf -or- BX_RF_bottom.3mf for Big Shot styling
- BC_RF_tube_bot.3mf
- BC_RF_pivot.3mf x 4
- BC_RF_patch.3mf
- BR_RF_mask.3mf
- BC_RF_maskbottom.3mf
- BR_RF_eyepiece.3mf
- BR_focusingScreen_OS.3mf
B. Big Max
- Big Max Front.3mf
- BX_front_lensboard_C1_000.3mf + BC_front_spacer_C1_200.3mf (modify STEP file as needed) -or- BX_front_lensboard_C1_415.3mf (modify STEP file as needed) -or- BX_front_lensboard_C1_650.3mf (modify STEP file as needed)
- Big Max Rear.3mf
- BC_diffuser_frame.3mf -or- BX_diffuser_frame.3mf if using magnets to attach it
- BX_cover_front.3mf
- BR_tp4056_holder.3mf
- BX_RF_mount.3mf
- BX_RF_top.3mf
- BC_RF_tube_top.3mf
- BX_RF_body.3mf -or- BC_RF_body.3mf for larger hands
- BX_RF_bottom.3mf
- BC_RF_tube_bot.3mf
- BC_RF_pivot.3mf x 4
- BC_RF_patch.3mf
- BR_RF_mask.3mf
- BC_RF_maskbottom.3mf
- BR_RF_eyepiece.3mf
- BR_focusingScreen_OS.3mf
C. Big Max Travel
- Big MT Front.3mf -or Big Max Front.3mf if you don’t need the 2mm shorter length
- BX_front_lensboard_C1_000.3mf + BC_front_spacer_C1_200.3mf (modify STEP file as needed) -or- BX_front_lensboard_C1_415.3mf (modify STEP file as needed) -or- BX_front_lensboard_C1_650.3mf (modify STEP file as needed)
- Big Max Rear A.3mf + Big Max Rear B.3mf + Big Max Rear C.3mf
- BC_diffuser_frame.3mf -or- BX_diffuser_frame.3mf if using magnets to attach it
- BX_cover_front.3mf
- BR_tp4056_holder.3mf
- BX_RF_mount.3mf
- BX_RF_top.3mf
- BC_RF_tube_top.3mf
- BX_RF_body.3mf -or- BC_RF_body.3mf for larger hands
- BX_RF_bottom.3mf
- BC_RF_tube_bot.3mf
- BC_RF_pivot.3mf x 4
- BC_RF_patch.3mf
- BR_RF_mask.3mf
- BC_RF_maskbottom.3mf
- BR_RF_eyepiece.3mf
- BR_focusingScreen_OS.3mf
D. Big Roid CB
- Big Cam Front.3mf -or- Big Cam Front wGrip.3mf
- BR_front_lensboard_C1_000.3mf + BC_front_spacer_C1_200.3mf (modify STEP file as needed) -or- BR_front_lensboard_C1_650.3mf (modify STEP file as needed)
- Big Roid Rear CB.3mf
- BR_CB_mount.3mf
- BC_diffuser_frame.3mf
- BR_cover_front.3mf
- BR_RF_mount_CB.3mf
- BC_RF_top.3mf
- BC_RF_tube_top.3mf
- BC_RF_body.3mf
- BC_RF_bottom.3mf
- BC_RF_tube_bot.3mf
- BC_RF_pivot.3mf x 4
- BC_RF_patch.3mf
- BR_RF_mask.3mf
- BC_RF_maskbottom.3mf
- BR_RF_eyepiece.3mf
- BR_focusingScreen_CB.3mf
GENERAL NOTES
- Files are optimized for Atomic Carbon Fiber PETG or Priline CFPC, so you may experience looser or tighter areas than my builds.
- Recommended 3 walls minimum, gyroid or grid infill, 15-25% infill depending on your material. With CF materials you can probably go down to 10-15%. Sometimes I’ll add modifiers for 15-25% infill around holes and slots for reinforcement. It’s important for you to go with your own trusted and tested settings vs mine.
- The M2 holes are designed on the tighter side so drill them out as needed (1/8 drill bit), clear out any debris, and test fit the nuts/screws before screwing on any parts. The cheaper amazon hardware tends to strip/slip easily. Do not overtighten anything, it’s not needed.
- For the glue/cement/epoxy usage make sure it doesn’t give off too much cloudy white residue, especially around the mirrors.
- My standard diffuser “recipe” right now is a 3 fresnel stack with no diffuser. I add colored cellophane for creative “gel” effects.
- Ideal shooting settings will be somewhere in the f22-f34 and 1/15-1/60 ranges.
MIRROR CUTTING
I use a wire cutter for foam to cut the acrylic mirror material (link to the device is in the video). It works ok but a powerful one would be best. Here’s what that process looks like: https://youtu.be/48rwQJWm6EM
You can use this same method to cut a focusing screen from acrylic sheet and insert into the focusing screen print for the camera you’re making (OS vs CB).
ASSEMBLY STEPS
(this assumes no other surface finishes are being done after this point. Read these steps and decide your own process if you’re going to paint/stain parts)
1. Attach diffuser frame to the Front part of the body. – 2x M2x12 screws + 2x M2 nuts
2. Build the Body by attaching the Front to the Rear. – 4x M2x12 screws + 4x M2 nuts
2b. For Big Max Travel the Rear will consist of 3 sections, each taking magnet strips. Make sure the magnets are in the correct orientation for attraction before gluing them in. Be careful with these long strip magnets as they shatter very easily.
3. Attach RF mount and RF body (2x M3x20 screws + 2x M3 nuts), use glue or other strong bonding material to ensure a strong bond with the grip body. This is important as it should not budge once calibrated or it will be off slightly. Don’t use too much glue on the body side in case you ever need to remove the entire RF due to a lens change. (I usually add a couple of drops near the edge so upon removal I can just slide in a razor blade to break through the glue).
4. Install mirrors into the RF top and bottom using the pivot disks, with the rectangle slots facing upward. Push the mirrors all the way in till they stop then rotate them as close to 45 degrees as possible, with the bottom angled toward the subject. You’ll fine tune it later.
5. Glue the RF tubes securely to the RF top and bottom pieces respectively. The one for the top has alignment marks, make sure these match up. There is also a recess for the RF patch disk, which should be pointing outward. Ensure that everything has a solid bond after gluing. Orientation of the lip on the bottom tube doesn’t matter but the sloped side toward the RF body is ideal.
6. Insert RF patch on the underside of the FR top/tube assembly with the arrow pointing forward toward the subject. Use the alignment marks. You can glue on some yellow cellophane to this piece for better focusing. If the RF patch disk is not a snug fit, then it will need to be glued in.
7. It’s now safe to attach lens to lensboard with its own retainer ring, then attach lensboard to the front of the camera. – 4x M2x16 screws + 4x M2 nuts.
8. Install RF top and bottom into the RF body, and gently hold them in place with the set screws (2x M2x6 screws + 2x M2 nuts). Don’t fully tighten just yet, only enough to allow slight rotation.
9. Attach focusing screen unit to begin the next step. You will install RF masks and eyepiece during the calibration steps below. These can be modified as needed for proper crop/framing/composition.
CALIBRATION
In video form: https://youtu.be/pRnWQ1L3syo
1. Print out the BigCam_target.pdf on 8.5×11 paper (or 11×17 if possible), and tape it upside-down to a wall with the center bullseye level with the tip of your nose.
2. Place the Big Roid on a tripod, and using your ground glass or focusing screen position the camera so that the target is centered and in focus. Pro tip: use a friend/model to really be exact. At this point you might look at the proportions of the model and determine if you prefer a different lensboard offset to reach your ideal focus distance and composition. Do this first before proceeding.
3. Optional: Increase lensboard offset from the 0.00 version to focus closer and enlarge the subject, and reprint. Decrease the lensboard offset from the 6.74 version to move further back and shrink the subject, and reprint. There is a slim Mk2 version of the Front part that I decided to throw in here as that one works best for the Geronars and G-clarons.
4. Install the top mask and rotate the RF top section left-to-right to match the overall image to your ground glass image. Once the image is centered, tighten the set screw to lock it in place. If the cropping doesn’t match, you’ll need to modify and reprint the RF masks and eyepiece as needed.
5. Within the RF top section, move the mirror up and down slightly so that the bright square patch is centered. The mask can be temporarily removed to make this step easier.
6. Rotate the RF bottom from left-to-right to align the double image horizontally in the viewfinder, and lock in place.
7. Within the RF bottom section, move the mirror up and down slightly so that the double image aligns vertically. RF bottom mask can be installed at this point. You should now have a viewfinder image that matches the ground glass.
8. Make marks to note the positions of the RF Top and Bottom, and then un-install them to add glue. This step is tricky so use a slower drying glue vs a faster one as you may need to perform more slight adjustments as the glue dries.
9. As a final step, add some glue to the pivot disks for the mirrors to prevent them from rotating.
IMPORTANT NOTE: the double image is slightly smaller because there are no optics within the RF to enlarge the image coming up from the bottom (it’s technically a longer distance from your eye). Since most shooting settings are between f/16 and f/32 there is little concern for missing focus if not aligned perfectly. Just try to focus on shapes where you can center the double image with your subject. I try to aim at the mouth, teeth, or upper lip.
MOTOR WIRING & FINAL ASSEMBLY
Refer to wiring diagram on Patreon.
1. Disassemble the OneStep+ or OneStep 2 camera, down to the point that you just have the bottom part. Be careful not to let the gears fall out as they are tricky to put back in. Make sure you retain the small switch along the left side near the rollers.
2. Solder your battery terminals to the TP4056 unit. Then solder your negative and positive wires to the TP4056. If the wires are long enough then the battery and TP4056 can be installed into the Big Roid on the rear left side. There is a print file for a “sled” that you can hot glue the TP4056 onto so it doesn’t move around. The positive will go to the 5mm on/off switch, the negative will be connected later.
3. Solder wires to the 8mm switch, bending the terminals as much as possible. Then slide it into the switch opening and thread on the lock nut as you slide it in. One terminal will go to the on/off switch and the other will be connected later.
4. Install the 5mm on/off switch and solder the positive coming in from the TP4056, as well as the positive leading out to the eject button and timing switch. Install a wire leading out from the other terminal on the switch which you will connect later.
5. Light seal around the area of the 5mm switch as light can come through the bottom.
6. Install the Polaroid processing unit with 4 small screws from the original camera (they are almost all the same size as the outer screws). Be sure to run the wires so that nothing gets caught. Also install the new front cover of the Polaroid unit using another 2 small screws from the original camera.
7. Attach the remaining wires: TP4056 negative wire to motor negative, positive wire from the ejection switch to the motor positive, wire from timing switch to motor positive.
8. Install back panels from the original polaroid camera.
Enjoy!!